Wednesday, January 18, 2006

Q & A

Last Written: 11 January 2006

I hope to add to this occasionally, so check back ever so often. I will date it when I do.

Many people have been asking me questions, here are some answers along with some rambling about things.

Here is a little background on schools and how they function. The school day is nothing like what you and I are use to in the States. That is part of the reason the Peace Corps is working with the Department of Education in the Republic of South Africa. Since 1994, when the apartheid was destroyed and a democracy was set into place, the rural villages (where we are) have been trying to catch up with the urban school systems. During the apartheid, the government place many restrictions and regulations on many things for the blacks and coloureds. Among those was the education of the blacks which was not nearly as high as the whites. As a result, the system that they used to teach with was terrible and they are implementing a new curriculum. This is where are main job lies, helping with the implementation. The teachers here were taught with Bantu education which was where a teacher would stand and the front and dictate what the students need to learn and questions were not to be asked. What the teacher said, whether right or wrong, was taken to be true. Group work, projects, and outside the box thinking are now among the ideas that are trying to be instituted into the classroom. This is difficult for many reasons. One, it is hard for someone who was taught in one manner to teacher others in another manner. This will slowly become better for the fact that the new teachers are better at this type of education and subsequently be better at teaching it. Resources are another problem, because it is hard to conduct an experiment with no supplies. Another issue is work ethic and parent and community involvement. A majority of the parents are not educated so the children don’t have any help or support at home. The parents honestly don’t care what there children achieve in school. This is a huge hurdle to overcome.

Books and stuff
One of the best biographies and books for that matter that I have ever read is A Long Walk to Freedom by Nelson Mandela. I HIGHLY recommend it, although its large in size it is a smooth read about the life of Nelson Mandela. It starts from his childhood all the way through his election as the first president in a democratic South Africa. An amazing man. And as I talk with the people here, they speak of him as being the work of God. The place has come a long way in just 12 years but still has a long way to go.
Another good resource to see into what life is like here is a movie, which I believe won some awards, called Yesterday. This is a depiction of a woman living and dealing with HIV/AIDS in a rural South African village in Kazunal-Natal. AIDS is a huge problem here. Number for 20-30 somethings is anywhere from 20-35%, crazy that 1 in 4 or 5 in that age group have AIDS. I, along with our other American friends here, often look around a room filled with people and just wonder how many people have it. Crazy to think about! It does seem to be getting better from a standpoint is more people are talking about it but it seems like people still aren’t getting tested which will solve the problem. Like anywhere also, the youth have that fearless attitude and don’t think that it will affect them.
Parent involvement is a problem. The parents meeting held once a quarter at our host school of 220 students is attended by 20 parents. That is not a good turnout and of those parents, not many actually want to help the school out at all. There is a parent governing body but the parents on this board don’t really want to be on it. They are elected into it, sometimes against their will. School fees are a huge problem. Parents don’t want to pay the fees for schools. Last year at our host school, over 10,000 rand ($1≈6 rand) in school fees were not paid by the parents. This is a very significant amount for schools that already don’t have much money to work with. This amount could buy a lot of supplies here. The schools fees are no more than 100 rand per year. This can be a significant amount but money budgeting is very poor here. There is a government program that allows a parent not to pay school fees if their income is below a certain amount. This doesn’t total that amount that wasn’t paid last year.
More to come in the future.

Here are some questions sent from Dave D at Carl Sandburg High School. Check back because I think I will add more thoughts as time goes on and as I get more time.

1) What does the average student wear? Brand names?
At school, uniforms are worn.
Boys: Gray or black slacks or shorts
Gray or blue button up collared shirt
Girls: Gray or black skirt, mini skirt or those all in one dress thingies (I’m a guy and don’t know any technical terms)
Gray or blue button up collared shirt
Depending on the day, the colors change. As far as cleanliness and tatteredness of the clothes, this depends on the parents and their situation at home. The ones with more money have the nicer, well-kept uniforms.
I am assuming the uniforms are a lot like those in Catholic schools at home, but I didn’t go to one so I will never know.
As far as dress around the village goes, the same applies. The wealthier (I use this in terms of the village) children have nicer and more clothes. Some children will be better dressed than me (which usually is hard) and some where the same thing for 5 days straight. I would say the styles aren’t really that much different than what you see at home. Appearance is quite important here, some people like to dress nicely. Trends come from the States and Europe. Most people have TVs too (4 channels) and there are American sitcoms (My Wife and Kids, Friends to name a few), American music and music videos, and, most importantly wrestling, WWE. Almost boys, and men for that matter, have at least one wrestling shirt with Eddie Guerro, John Cena, and the others. Girls tend not to wear shorts or pants due to tradition but this is changing with the younger crowd.
2) Are there problems with famines....epidemics?
I think the biggest epidemic is AIDS.
Food is also a problem whenever you enter a third world place with poverty the way it is. Our host family eats a pretty healthy diet comparable to back home. But both my host parents work and therefore have money for health food. The staple food here is bogobe, also called pap and porridge. This is made with fine ground corn meal. To make it, boil water and added the corn meal until it because thick, almost like mashed potatoes. This is all some eat for dinner. Although it is fortified with some vitamins, it isn’t a balanced diet. Chicken is the staple meat here. The wealthier families will eat bogobe and chicken and possibly gravy made of tomatoes, onion and other available veggies. Rice is also a common staple food. My family will have something different each night. Anything from pasta, gravy, and sausage to bogobe, cabbage, and chicken. My father is the biggest meat eater I have ever know. He like eating all kinds of meat. One of his favourites: sheep’s head (no I am not lying). Other favourites here include chicken’s feet and heads!
Schools have a feed scheme for the children. Every child will get a plate of food during the day (although one problem with it is, the government only funds it for 4 of the 5 days of the week.). This will consist of rice or bogobe and gravy. For some children, this may be their only meal of the day.
3) What are your classroom settings like....for example are there classrooms of freshmen through seniors together.
I have yet to visit the high school (but am hoping to get over there soon) as I work primarily with the primary school. The education system starts at grade 1 and goes through grade 12 before the student go off to university. The handful of student, again whose parents can afford it, will go to kindergarten which is run by the Catholic church in the village next to ours. Primary school is grade 1-4or 6 or 7. Middle school is from grades 7-9. High school is from grades 10-12. There is then a test at the end of grade 12 that you have to pass to graduate. The pass rate this year for this test was about 68% for the country.
As far as the classrooms themselves, we have four schools and all are very different.
Manyeding: ≈220 students Grades 1-6 6 teachers (1 is also the principal)
Gamasepa: ≈200 students Grades 1-7 6 teachers (1 is also the principal)
Obontse: ≈70 students Grades 1-7 3 teachers (1 is also the principal)
Rebogile: ≈40 students Grades 1-4 2 teachers (1 is also the principal)
As you can figure out, some of the schools are multi-grade classrooms. High schools are better in that I think they always have separate classes for each grade but not positive.
4) What do the students do for entertainment, and what do they have in terms of video entertainment.
This is kind of part of the problem if you ask me. There is nothing to do in the village. This is why drink is such a big problem even into high schoolers and younger. During the day after school, most people sit in the shade. At night, go home eat and watch TV.
5) How long is your school day?
7:50 to 1:30 for grades 1-3
7:50 to 2:40 for grades 3-7
This varies because the teachers can, and will, leave whenever. If they have an errand to run or their only transportation back home is early, then class is over.
6) What is the average diet like?
See #2
7) Are their extra curricular activities?
They have sports which includes soccer for boys, volleyball, netball for girls (kind of like basketball without the dribbling and backboard?!). The high school also has softball.
There is usually a choir and a traditional dance club. We are trying to start a chess club too. These activities are hard because the teachers don’t get paid extra and therefore don’t see a reason to stay much longer. There are a few dedicated ones.
8) What kind of traditions do you have?
All kinds. I can spend hours on this one. Weddings. Funerals are a week long event that involves all night vigils during the week. The traditional dress are still prominent. Other traditions having to do with babies and such. I will add more later.
9) Do you guys play sports....football?
Yes, the sport that you can get going at anytime is football (not the American kind). Soccer is HUGE in the village. If one of the people with a ball (me and two others in the village) doesn’t show up, you can walk around the village and see kids playing soccer with a ball made of plastic bags from the grocery stores. When I want to play soccer, I tell my 7 year old host brother and start walking to the field with the ball in the air. My host brother will run around yelling and by the time I arrive at the field (a dirt clearing in the middle of a field with poles as goals) there are a dozen kids ready to play. Running is something that we are doing and the kids like to run with us. Since kids don’t really have toys, they make there own out of sticks or wire. Hand crafted wire cars with soda can wheels are ‘driven’ all around the village by boys. Also old car ties are rolled around for a good time.
10) What is the weather like....?
Hot. Hot. Hot. So far it has been hot. And the sun is INTENSE. During between around 1-3 or 4, if you are outside, you are in the shade! I have never felt the sun to be so searingly hot than it is here. It is like a giant is holding a magnifying glass and the beam is pointing to you. Did I mention it was hot. The evening though are usually quite pleasant and it cools off nicely.
11) Is their a lot of poverty....?
Yes, see earlier answers.
12) What part of South Africa are you in?
Northwest province (actually they have changed the borders so I will be living in the Nothern Cape province soon). My village is called Manyeding which is 25 km ESE of a town called Kuruman (you should be able to find it on a map!)
13) What kind of music do the students listen to?
AfroPop is big. Band like Malika and Mafikizolo (I can’t spell) are the South African Pop bands. And American music, especially R& B and rap. 50 Cent, Eminem, Usher, and Destiny’s Child to name a few.
14) Can your students ask questions for us to answer...? (We would like to start a correspondence) I am still working on that. It maybe a while longer. You can ask me as many questions as you want though.
15) Do your students care about sports in America...for example, the World Series Champion Chicago White Sox
No soccer is king in the villages (and 2010 the World Cup will be here in SA). I have been told by South African’s that the blacks like soccer and the whites like rugby and cricket. Its funny though because you can buy a Sox hat on the street and you will see other teams thrown around. I think it is whatever the bootlegger brought in on the shipment they sell. The gardener for our host family sports a SF Giants hat, but he has no idea who it is.
16) What is the main religion where you are at?
Christianity. People are very religious here. Sunday is truly the Sabbath with nothing but the grocery stores open. People go to church (sometimes for 5-6 hours)
17) How is South Africa different from America...this is more of a question for you Adam.
I answer this one with everything I write.
18) Do they have fast food?
Yes, in town (Kuruman). Once you are in town, things pretty much look like they would back home. I have been told you can tell how big a town is by what fast food they have. Small towns have KFC (Kuruman does!?)
Middle towns have KFC and a local burger joint called Steers
Large Cities (like Pretoria) have KFC, Steers, and McDonalds. Yes not need to work, you can eat McDo here to.
19) What kind of responsibilities do the students have around home?
This is a tricky one. The kids here have a lot more responsibility than I ever remember having. From cooking and cleaning, to taking care of the animals. Some of this is due the larger number of orphans. In which case the grandparents are the caretakers. In school this is also the same. Since there is no janitors, the child clean the school every morning. From sweeping out classrooms to clean the school latrines the students are the cleaning crew. They also do the yards work and at one school are clearing a soccer field.
20) Are there a lot of stores to buy food and clothing...or are there a lot of farmers that grow their own food?
Yes. The grocery stores in town look like those in the States, just smaller and with different brands. You can pretty much get anything you desire. The Mountain Dew tastes different though and Pepsi is hard to find. Coke has a stronghold on the soda industry. They do have a Fanta Pineapple which is awesome.
Clothing is the same to in the towns. You can go to a Mr Price or Jet and keep up with the latest fashion trends.
21) What are the foods you eat for fun?
Watermelons can be bought now for about $1 now that they are in season. The fruit here is good. I am becoming and even better cook from scratch and make all kinds of sweets that are always dubbed Monate (delicious).

Saturday, January 14, 2006

11 Jan 2006







Dumelang Everyone! 11 January 2006

Hope everyone had a great holidays and is starting out 2006 with a bang! We wish everyone a Merry Belated Christmas and enjoyable new year! With the holidays means lots of family and friends were in town (I guess I should say in village, since we really don’t live in a town). Our two older host brothers came and stayed for a week or two. One is 30 and works in another city and the other is 26 (he is only a few months older) and was moving to Cape Town as part of his Air Force training. Also in town were random sisters (who aren’t really sisters in our the sense of the word), brothers (who aren’t realty brothers), aunts (who aren’t really…), uncles (who aren’t really…), and cousins (who aren’t really…). And with all of them, were all their friends, which I think most of the time they can call cousins because pretty much everyone is somehow related to everyone else, and if they aren’t, they will marry into it!? It was fun to have some of our age people in the village! The reason there are no longer 20-somethings (or at least not more than you can count on your hands and maybe toes) in the village is because most go off to university and see how exciting life is with things to do and never come back unless it is to visit.

Here are the cliff notes of our holiday break!
Two wedding in two days (one was nice and the other was World’s Worst Wedding (WWW))
Violently ill from some food that we ate at WWW’s BBQ
Laid in bed for several days
Christmas BBQ at host grandmother’s house
Trip to Taung for New Year’s to visit some friends
Week of nothing
School starting back up


So as one can see we kept ourselves busy!?

Here is the longer version…

The first event that we had to deal with was two weddings in two days. I am sure that you can sense my excitement here saying that I got to withstand two weddings of people I have never meet over a 48 hour period most of which is in the language that I still can only say my name!? The first wedding was fine because we only had time to go to the reception. This wedding was a friend of our host brothers which we had never meet and probably for that matter never will. It took place on Friday and was actually the first day of their two day wedding (Friday was a white wedding and Saturday was a traditional wedding which we weren’t able to go to.) The reception was nice but one thing about these white weddings is that about 10 people have to give speeches at the reception. When I say have to I mean HAVE to. And when I say speeches, I mean not a little toast to the happily married couple but a short book about anything and everything about the couple and just about life. So you do the math…if at least 10 people give speeches and they are a minimum of 10 minutes long, how long before Thabo gets to eat? Yeah, quite a while. For all you out there that thought I had no patience, one thing I am learning here is PATIENCE….and a lot of it (whether it is the 2 hours of speeches at weddings or the 3 hour church service). But anyways, this wedding was nice and we were only there or 3 hours and I got a good meal out of it.
The other wedding is a whole different story. This wedding involved a cousin, in the literal sense too! So what that means is the wedding event actually started on Thursday for the Saturday wedding. Thursday was slaughtering day, I however was too late in my arrival due to my soccer playing and only saw the carcasses in the tree. There were a total of 5 sheep hanging out to dry. But it turns out that I wasn’t completely out of luck. Friday morning involved getting up and heading over to the next village over where the wedding was to be held. Weddings here are big events but they usually don’t occur at a hall of any kind. The hall is a giant tent which is set up in the family’s yard. So this was the destination for the morning. And to my joyous surprise, they had decided to slaughter 2 more sheep, fearing that the five they had already slaughtered (and one cow!) wouldn’t be enough. So my host brother and I lent a helping hand. No details here…your imagination can run wild. But as everyone was looking for a knife, all they could find was….yes, a dull knife not longer than 3”. (***A special thanks to my aunt and uncle in PA who, I am guessing here, felt some pity for the animal and sent a thoughtful Christmas gift of a knife sharpener! Thanks, I will use with pride and hopefully the animals will feel less in their last moments!***) Once, finished with the skinning of the sheep, it was in the car and off to the wedding (see above). And yes, we went home to change, I don’t slaughter in my Sunday bests.
After the wedding (see above) it was back to the other wedding prepping. Catering here for weddings is also a little different (if you haven’t noticed a trend, most things are the same in a different sort of way). Catering here means that you gather up all the aunts and friends (mostly women) and you stay up ALL night and you cook and cook and cook and cook for a lot of people in GIANT cast iron kettles (that weigh several hundred pounds) over a fire. So all the food is homemade and hence the reason for all the dead sheep! When I say a lot of people, I mean a lot of people. But another different little thing, you can invite all your friends and family totaling 200 but you have to cook for 400. Because the wedding is held in a backyard in the village and since no one is every really doing anything of dire importance, neighbors just show up and they show up in numbers. So you invite 200 and get 400, crazy. Anyways, we didn’t stay all night helping with preparation, but we did stay until at least midnight (which is VERY late in the village)
On Saturday, the wedding itself went a little something like this. Got up and was told we were leaving for the wedding by 9:00 because it started at 10 and our host brother, who was driving, was in the wedding. No problem. Arriving a little late 9:15, we find the bride in hiding, the groom nowhere to be seen and the tent that was suppose to be finished getting decorated last night to still be half done. So since we had nothing to do before the wedding started, we hastily helped organize. After about the fifth time changing everything around, the boss finally liked what she saw. By this time it was 10:30 or 11. I know what you are thinking, you missed the wedding. But no, everyone was just standing around waiting for the groom. YES, the GROOM was LATE to his OWN WEDDING. It still makes me laugh. But 11:00 passes, 11:15, 11:30 (we are now starting to wager on if and what time he will show up), 11:45 (now I am getting concerned because the rations we packed were going to hold out until later afternoon which I was now forecasting we were going to eat.) and finally noon rolls around. But with the clock hitting 12, a car rolls up and the rumors that the groom was actually in it. YEAH! After parading over to the church (thank goodness it was only across the street (street in the sense of the word that cars drive on it not in the sense of a paved road that you are thinking of)) Church was crammed with people but thank goodness there aren’t many white people from the US at the wedding because we get the VIP treatment and actually get a seat. This is a good thing because we have seen home videos and the church service can run on for HOURS. But, to my surprise, along with a lot of others (meaning everyone) the service was only 15 minutes. That is the best part. The worst part involves the late groom looking bored out of his mind with his hand in his pockets for the whole service. Hands in his pocket as the priest reads a prayer and blesses the rings. The groom then proceeds to give his bride the wrong hand to put the ring on. After much commotion, the ring was switched. The 15-minute church service, although nice, was terrible. No vows, no reading, no kiss, and a bored groom! The bride was lovely and always had a smile on her face (by the middle of the day, people were discussing why they were getting married because it didn’t seem like the groom wanted to get married?!)
After church, it was back to the tent and the reception. But the good news came when they were changing the schedule so the food wouldn’t go bad and we would be eating after a few speeches (aka 5!?). After speeches and food, yeah, it was off to the photo shoot at a park. Problem was we got lost going there, oh well, we eventually made it. Photos…nice, then back to the reception to hear more speeches. But a problem arises again when the groom takes an extra hour longer than everyone else to get back. When he finally arrives, they do the traditional wedding with traditional outfits. Neat to see. After some traditional dance, there were more speeches in the tent. And then they read everyone’s gift card out loud. Yes, they opened the envelopes to everyone’s gift and read the cards out to the people sitting in the tent.
This pretty much concluded the reception but there was a late night BBQ for the young people. And being a young person, I was inclined to go. These events were to start at 9pm. I am guessing by the way I have told the story that you are assuming since everything else didn’t start on time that this wouldn’t either. Well, you are correct sir! After waiting for another THREE hours, the party finally started. And for those of you wondering, yes, the groom was late! The party consisted of another 5 speeches (double yeah) and food. All fine and well. We left after nothing very exciting happened at about 2am. According to the accounts from our host brothers that stayed later, the groom eventually got into a fight with the bride which prompted everyone to leave immediately.
Upon arriving home, my stomach started doing somersaults. Subsequently for the next 20 hours I made numerous (at least 12) trips to the latrine! Oh what fun! I now know why they are called the runs. And let me tell you, it isn’t a short run! Don’t worry, I wasn’t the only one affected, Lerato was right next to me the whole time. We were thing of installing a revolving door on our latrine! It was something at the BBQ that hit us.


Andrea Making a Huge Loaf of Bread

Prep work being done on the meat before the wedding


The huge cast iron kettles that cooked the wedding feast



Our host brother and the bride parading to the church


We were glad we had a full week to recover before Christmas. It was about Thursday, when I started feeling better (read when I got my tenacious appetite back!) It was also Thursday that a sheep was tied out back for, you guessed it, slaughtering. And yup, I was a part of it. Although I wasn’t main guy (next time maybe), I did lend a hand. This furry friend was to turn into fire-seared Christmas dinner. Sheep are bigger than turkeys and have fur. This makes them a bit different to slaughter!? But every animal is always new and exciting. My favorite part is the washing of the intestines which involves pouring water in an orifice and then blowing in that orifice to push the water through to the other end. If you don’t know what the orifice is, go back to anatomy class!
Christmas itself was good. Started out with a (long if you ask me and short if you ask anyone here, 2-2 ½ hour) church service. Nice, and I even knew the tune of one of the hymns. Then there was a quick lunch of cold baked beans and fish in tomato sauce on warm bread. Off to grandmother’s house aka the old lady for a big get together of the extended family. The BBQ was a lot of fun and there had to have been 5 or 6 generation of our host family. About 40 people in all. It involved sitting in the shade (which people do a lot because the sun is SO warm). After that a quiet evening of digesting all the food.



Thabo helping at the BBQ stand


The Old Lady, enjoying her company on Christmas


The day after Christmas is also a holiday here and since we didn’t have time to give out presents to our host family, today was the day. Christmas here is a little different to for the fact that a lot of the people don’t have any spare income that they can spend on presents. To some people in the village, it seemed like it was just another day which was kind of disheartening. But we spent a small amount of money on our immediate family for gift because they have been so very gracious to us. And the excitement in their faces, all of them, was well worth the $4-5 we spent on them!
A couple days after Christmas, we hiked a ride to Taung. A village about 80 km away where 4 of our friends are stationed for their two years. These are the same friends that made the trek to our village to celebrate Thanksgiving. After a couple of days of staying at the house (she is living high on the hog with running water, flushing toilets and a bathtub that even I can fit in!) of one of those friends, we headed to a bed and breakfast in a nearby town (yes, not a village!). New Years was spent partying near the pool (go figure, we have been at site for several months and the sun has not stopped shining once) on an overcast and cool (75) day. Not prime weather for one of two days with a pool! But we made the best of it and had a great party that culminated with shopping cart races!


The following week before school starts involved lying around and being the bum that I am!
School is finally back in which means that we are looking forward to our next break which will involve traveling!!! (We will finally be off our travel restriction!) The first two days was without students. And the first school I visited the teachers accomplished NOTHING. They literally sat there and talked the whole day (with the exception of one who I helped work on the computer!). The next day as a little more productive but not very. But the children are finally here and I hope today goes like many others. The teachers were in class most of the day (yeah) and the kids were excited (they are always willing to learn!)
That is about it….its been a while but those are some of the things that have happened to us. I am sure I left stuff out but you’ll have to wait for next time. We should start writing more now that we can get to a computer more.


Happy 2006!